Candles for djinns

Cairo to Delhi

It’s Thursday afternoon – which means Sufi time (it was two weeks ago that I went to see the qawwali at the Nizamuddin dargah). At about 3pm I set off to explore Firoz Shah Kotla, the ruins of a former Delhi – Firozabad – which was built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq, Sultan of Delhi, in about 1354.

The remains of Firoz Shah’s capital are now in east-central Delhi, and to get to them I passed through the Bengali area – just like being in Brick Lane! I dropped in to an enormous Bengali cafe and sweet shop for some tea and kesar raj bhog, a super-super-sugary sweet that turned up the same unearthly sunshine yellow as the formica tabletop:

To reach Firoz Shah Kotla you walk up a long avenue lined with people selling the usual snacks and drinks – along with devotional paraphernalia: rose petals, marigold garlands, incense…

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